Martin wrote:Sorry Karl... this is a bit off-topic :)
I'm reading with interest. I have learned tons about displaying panoramas for the web last few weeks, but I have basically no clue how you guys shoot them.
It's quite simple actually...
Imagine you are in the center of a sphere.. .then you must take images so that the whole sphere is being covered.
Crucial is to assess the best mean time/aperture for the whole sphere so that all the images will get the same amount of light (so, the camera must be in manual mode).
For some parts it will be to dark, for others it will be to light... you can correct this later in e.g. photoshop.
Also important is that every image has some overlap with its neighbour images for stitching them together.
You will need to take a lot of images if you use a standard lens, say 50mm... and even much more images if you use a zoom lens...
Conversely, if you take wide-angle lenses you need to take only a few images.
And if you've got a 8mm fisheye you only need to take four images because such a lens covers 180 degrees of the inside of your sphere.
Two would seem enough (2 times 180 degrees is a full sphere), but you need some overlap for stitching.
And then it gets easier... open your set of images in PTgui where an automated process will analyze the images and stitch them as best as possible.
Some tweaking here and there to make it even better and your pano is ready for manual corrections.
Just some retouching in photoshop sometimes to correct some stitching lines.
Then there is the issue of the nodal point and paralax.
In short: paralax is the shifting of objects in relation to each other when you turn the camera around.
The nodal point is the point around which you camera must rotate in order to have (ideally) no paralax.
Paralax makes stitching difficult because e.g. on one image a tree is a little bit more behind another tree than on another image.
That's why there are special panorama tripod ball heads.
You see... it's really easy and also fun to do...